We have spent a lovely, warm last day in Tel Aviv, by the beach, which is not far from our hotel. The water is warm and the sand silky. The temperature outside is about 30c. In a couple of hours, we will meet Kalman for dinner. Then, pack, have a short nap and procede with the journey to Amsterdam and to Vancouver, and then Victoria.
I am not sure that we are great travellers, but I do like this thought:
Like all great travellers
I have seen more than I remembered
And remembered more than I have seen.
- Benjamin Disraeli
Over and Out
- Maureen & Doug
Travels with Mo and Doug
Sunday, May 19, 2013
Saturday, May 18, 2013
Get Up and Golan
We have returned from a full day on tour. Jacob, our guide and three others (Patrick from England and Paulina and Bartek from Poland) made up the group. We left at 8:30 am and drove to Nazareth (Arab-Israeli town), visited the Basilica of the Anunciation and toured a local Arab market, where Doug bought one of those Lawrence of Arabia hats. The weather was becoming very hot.
We stopped at Capernaum, the centre of Jesus' ministry and had a great St. Peter's Fish lunch at the Ein-Gev kibbutz. After our break, we ascended to the Golan Heights to the Shalom Vista point, where we could see spectacular views of the Sea of Galilee and landscape. The switchback drive down from the Golan is one that I will never forget - we could see Syria and Jordan at close range. Finally, we stopped at Yardent on the River Jordan, where people were being baptized and Doug met a muskrat.
Jacob spoke passionately about the Palestinian problem. I'm not sure that I am clear on where I stand, but I am glad to have heard from both sides.
The temperature reached 35C, which is pretty hot for us BC-ers. Patrick looked quite pink at the end. Tomorrow, we leave for Tel Aviv and a visit with Kalman. Then off to the airport at about 2 in the morning to catch a 4am flight. Yawn.
We stopped at Capernaum, the centre of Jesus' ministry and had a great St. Peter's Fish lunch at the Ein-Gev kibbutz. After our break, we ascended to the Golan Heights to the Shalom Vista point, where we could see spectacular views of the Sea of Galilee and landscape. The switchback drive down from the Golan is one that I will never forget - we could see Syria and Jordan at close range. Finally, we stopped at Yardent on the River Jordan, where people were being baptized and Doug met a muskrat.
Jacob spoke passionately about the Palestinian problem. I'm not sure that I am clear on where I stand, but I am glad to have heard from both sides.
The temperature reached 35C, which is pretty hot for us BC-ers. Patrick looked quite pink at the end. Tomorrow, we leave for Tel Aviv and a visit with Kalman. Then off to the airport at about 2 in the morning to catch a 4am flight. Yawn.
Thursday, May 16, 2013
Guns 'n' Moses
Today, the relatively relaxed atmosphere in Jerusalem has been replaced by many armed militia and police (Quite like our very own War Measures Act). This is probably a reaction to the Nakba protests of yesterday and the demonstrations against the Women of the Wall. The guy at our hotel desk shrugs the whole thing off. All in a day, I guess.
We made a stab at visiting the Dome of the Rock, but it was arbitrarily closed (typical), possibly due to all the tensions of Wednesday. The Israeli security suggested we try again in the early afternoon, but we decided to give it a miss.
We walked the ramparts, found Oskar Schindler's grave, rode the tram to NE Jerusalem for a look-see, had a drink on the Terrace at the King David Hotel and finally walked through a Crusader neighbourhood.
During the day, we heard a loud crowd, drums, singing, and horns and thought "uh-oh", another protest. But, no it was a bar mitzvah party, walking to the Wall. Their celebratory spirit was contagious. L' Chaim!
Tomorrow: express bus to Haifa
We made a stab at visiting the Dome of the Rock, but it was arbitrarily closed (typical), possibly due to all the tensions of Wednesday. The Israeli security suggested we try again in the early afternoon, but we decided to give it a miss.
We walked the ramparts, found Oskar Schindler's grave, rode the tram to NE Jerusalem for a look-see, had a drink on the Terrace at the King David Hotel and finally walked through a Crusader neighbourhood.
During the day, we heard a loud crowd, drums, singing, and horns and thought "uh-oh", another protest. But, no it was a bar mitzvah party, walking to the Wall. Their celebratory spirit was contagious. L' Chaim!
Tomorrow: express bus to Haifa
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
Bethlehem and Battle Scenes
The Nativity has always struck me as the perfect story. It resonates with me, in a way that many others do not. Well, today we visited Bethlehem, as part of a tour. And, much of the experience reflected the ancient narrative. The arrangement to pick us up was sketchy - Doug and I plus two others crowded into a tiny cab, with a driver whose English only extended to urging us to upgrade to a longer trip to Jericho (no thanks). Next, came the drop-off at the Israeli-Palestinian border. We were on our own, negotiating this not so user-friendly place of multiple walls, fences and barbed wire. (You can see how the anxiety & ugliness of getting to Bethlehem might reflect the ancient story). On the other side, we were met by our guide, the lovely Jabal, an Arab Christian, who put us in a van and ``shepherded` us around the sites of Bethlehem. At the end, we said goodbye at the border and Jabal asked us ``to pray for his country``. I`m not sure of the answer to the thorny politics of the Middle East, but I will give it my best, Jabal.
We spent the afternoon, walking down the Mount of Olives, stopping often. The Garden of Gethsemane was most evocative. I think I like my shrines in the open air. Back in Jerusalem, we found ourselves in the middle of a Palestinian protest. Police on horseback were charging the protesters. For a few minutes, we were fascinated and found spots to take pictures. But, it was quite a volatile, noisy situation and we made a decision to vamoose.
Today is Jewish Pentecost (when Moses received the 10 Commandments) and is a major holiday here. Everyone in Jerusalem seems to be on their way to the Wall.
We spent the afternoon, walking down the Mount of Olives, stopping often. The Garden of Gethsemane was most evocative. I think I like my shrines in the open air. Back in Jerusalem, we found ourselves in the middle of a Palestinian protest. Police on horseback were charging the protesters. For a few minutes, we were fascinated and found spots to take pictures. But, it was quite a volatile, noisy situation and we made a decision to vamoose.
Today is Jewish Pentecost (when Moses received the 10 Commandments) and is a major holiday here. Everyone in Jerusalem seems to be on their way to the Wall.
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
Yad Vashem
We started out early, catching a tram to suburban Mount Herzl, the site of Yad Vashem. This Holocaust museum complex is a riveting, powerful account of the events from 1931-1946. Most haunting was the Children's Memorial, designed by Canadian-Israeli Moshe Safdie (Expo 67's Habitat). You walk in absolute darkness, with only a handrail for guidance, until you emerge into a dome-shaped building covered with the impression of millions of stars shining in the firmament, while a voice names each of the 1.5 million children murdered. Unforgettable. No photography allowed, so I really will have to rely on my memory.
After a quick break, we took the tram back to the Old City and explored the Christian Quarter until we found the Via de la Rosa and then the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The religious scene here is complicated in more ways than one. About 8 Christian sects share the church and can't seem to agree on much - so little gets done. Including - no security check, no admission charge. Most of the Via de la Rosa feels like a touristy shopping mall, but the presence of the devout give it a sacred feeling. I was curiously unmoved by the Stations and the Church. ( Standing in the Ephesian amphitheatre last week, where Paul preached had a bigger wow factor for me.) To complete the confusion, as we emerged from the Church, the Call to Prayer began.
After a quick break, we took the tram back to the Old City and explored the Christian Quarter until we found the Via de la Rosa and then the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The religious scene here is complicated in more ways than one. About 8 Christian sects share the church and can't seem to agree on much - so little gets done. Including - no security check, no admission charge. Most of the Via de la Rosa feels like a touristy shopping mall, but the presence of the devout give it a sacred feeling. I was curiously unmoved by the Stations and the Church. ( Standing in the Ephesian amphitheatre last week, where Paul preached had a bigger wow factor for me.) To complete the confusion, as we emerged from the Church, the Call to Prayer began.
Monday, May 13, 2013
Next stop Jerusalem
What a city! It is the crossroads of the three great religions, and seems to represent the best and worst in all of us. Lots of political baggage.
Due to our slapdash planning, we are faced with a major Jewish holiday, which begins tomorrow at sunset and ends Thursday at sunset. ( Everything Jewish will be closed, including transit). So, we are trying to concentrate on the Jewish sites today and Tuesday. Beginning with the Western Wall, (the last remnant of the Temple), Doug and I were obliged to go our separate ways. They are definitely not into mixed-gender worship. We could feel the pulse of the faithful, as men and women approached the wall. Later (together and with an ice cream cone), we wandered the narrow alleyways of the Jewish Quarter.)
We are lodging at the Three Arches YMCA - a beautiful Moorish styled landmark built in the 1930s, as a place of international peace among faiths and nations. It is directly across the street from the King David Hotel, famously bombed in 1946 by Irgun (right wing Zionist underground group). I feel immersed in history and faith at this moment.
Due to our slapdash planning, we are faced with a major Jewish holiday, which begins tomorrow at sunset and ends Thursday at sunset. ( Everything Jewish will be closed, including transit). So, we are trying to concentrate on the Jewish sites today and Tuesday. Beginning with the Western Wall, (the last remnant of the Temple), Doug and I were obliged to go our separate ways. They are definitely not into mixed-gender worship. We could feel the pulse of the faithful, as men and women approached the wall. Later (together and with an ice cream cone), we wandered the narrow alleyways of the Jewish Quarter.)
We are lodging at the Three Arches YMCA - a beautiful Moorish styled landmark built in the 1930s, as a place of international peace among faiths and nations. It is directly across the street from the King David Hotel, famously bombed in 1946 by Irgun (right wing Zionist underground group). I feel immersed in history and faith at this moment.
Leaving Tel Aviv
Before pressing onwards, we hit the Tel Aviv beaches one more time. Because of dangerous currents, swimming is forbidden in some areas. This is indicated by a black, ominous flag, stuck in the sand. But, the Banana Beach, near our hotel is safe.
Around noon, we catch the Egged Bus to Jerusalem. The landscape is remarkably lush and green (considering it IS desert) - a testament to the toil and seat of pioneer Israelis.
Around noon, we catch the Egged Bus to Jerusalem. The landscape is remarkably lush and green (considering it IS desert) - a testament to the toil and seat of pioneer Israelis.
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