Yad Vashem

We started out early, catching a tram to suburban Mount Herzl, the site of Yad Vashem.  This Holocaust museum complex is a riveting, powerful account of the events from 1931-1946.  Most haunting was the Children's Memorial, designed by Canadian-Israeli Moshe Safdie (Expo 67's Habitat).  You walk in absolute darkness, with only a handrail for guidance, until you emerge into a dome-shaped building covered with the impression of millions of stars shining in the firmament, while a voice names each of the 1.5 million children murdered.  Unforgettable.  No photography allowed, so I really will have to rely on my memory.
After a quick break, we took the tram back to the Old City and explored the Christian Quarter until we found the  Via de la Rosa and then the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.  The religious scene here is complicated in more ways than one.  About 8 Christian sects share the church and can't seem to agree on much - so little gets done.  Including - no security check, no admission charge.  Most of the Via de la Rosa feels like a touristy shopping mall, but the presence of the devout give it a sacred feeling.  I was curiously unmoved by the Stations and the Church. ( Standing in the Ephesian amphitheatre last week, where Paul preached had a bigger wow factor for me.)  To complete the confusion, as we emerged from the Church, the Call to Prayer began.